For me a needed upgrade before I head out to Moab, Utah for Easter Jeep Safari, was an upgrad to my tie road and lower control arms. On my 2013 JKU I did bend one lower control arm at some time. When doing research I was looking for lower control arms that are fixed and at the stock length. I don’t want to have any bolts that need constant tightening or the possibility of one coming loose at some point. The tie rod is located higher than the axel tube, but it is out in front and exposed to get damaged. For both of these I chose to go with Synergy. I have used their products before and have been happy with them. Their powder coat and paint finish have been able to withstand the winters of salt and other products that we get to enjoy on the roads here in NorthEast Ohio.
Lower Control Arms
To remove and replace the lower control arms, you need to do this at ride height. So you have to crawl under the Jeep, it should not be lifted on jack stand or on a vehicle lift. It’s an easy process, just depends on how much rust and mud are around the bolts. Pro Tip would be to hit the bolts up with penetrating oil or WD40/PB Blaster, the night before, this lets the oil work its way into the bolts and do its job of lubricating the bolt. Simply remove the stock control arm and replace with the Syngery/aftermarket. Make sure that your putting on the front or rear and that the bends on the control arm are in the same directs as the one your are replacing. Make sure when your done to torque down the bots to specifications. Take the Jeep for a ride around the block, and check the torque again. After about a month of driving around town, check the torque again. Pro Tip, use a paint pen on the bolts so you can visually inspect if the bolt has moved.
Tie rod is a more “difficult” install, for many reasons. It’s not a difficult install in the mechanical processor getting the old one out and new one in, its more “difficult” because you need to measure and tweak the length of the tie road as its adjustable. Pro Tip, just like for the lower control arms, hit the bolts up with penetrating oil or WD40/PB Blaster, the night before, this lets the oil work its way into the bolts and do its job of lubricating the bolt. First part of the install you will have to remove the tires and remove the stock tie rod. Once you get the stock tie rod out you will have to measure the length and then adjust the new toe rod to the same length. I have an upgrade steering stabilizer and a high steer kit, so I have to widen the champ that goes around sth tie rod as the new Synergy tube is wider than stock. Also with the Synergy tie rod, it has greasable ends with a “key chain” like clamp. The older style clamp was a round retainer spring that was difficult to get on and then when it was on, it had a tendency to slip off if you added too much grease. The new style is difficult to get on however I have not had issues with it coming off over time. Once you have the new tie rod in, the ends greased, torque it down. Next thing you will see if your steering wheel is not centered. Now this is where you have to adjust and tweak the tie rod length to make the steering wheel straight. Be careful driving with a steering wheel not centered, the Jeep can go into LIMP mode and that will have issues if you are at highway speeds. Try your best to get it as straight as you can in your garage/driveway. I took my Jeep to a local shop and got an alignment done. I have the tech adjust the tie rod to get everything in alignment. You can also do your own alignment. I have never done this , but there are alot of YouTube video sand online posts about doing your alignment that way.